home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- <text id=90TT3056>
- <title>
- Nov. 12, 1990: A Card Game? No, Cooking Oil
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1990
- Nov. 12, 1990 Ready For War
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- FOOD, Page 107
- A Card Game? No, Cooking Oil
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>Canola is the latest love of the cholesterol-free set
- </p>
- <p> The American health-food hit parade is a fickle thing. Not
- long ago, oat bran zoomed to the top of the charts because of
- its putative ability to lower cholesterol. It quickly fell back
- when it was found to work no better than other low-fiber grains.
- Margarine was considered a golden oldie on the basis of its zero
- cholesterol count until last summer, when it was discovered that
- one of the ingredients in the stick form could increase the risk
- of heart disease. Now there is a new contender on the playlist:
- canola oil.
- </p>
- <p> Of all the common cooking oils, canola contains the lowest
- level of saturated fat--the kind that boosts blood
- cholesterol, the villain in many forms of heart disease. Like
- other oils, canola boasts a long shelf life, has the ability to
- remain odorless at high frying temperatures and averages 120
- calories per tablespoon. But canola's biggest attraction is its
- scant, 6% level of saturated fat, in contrast to 14% in olive
- oil and 51% in palm oil. Canola also contains high levels of
- monounsaturated fat. For a number of years, consuming that
- substance was thought to reduce the "bad" type of cholesterol
- in the blood known as LDL (low-density lipoprotein). Recent
- studies suggest, however, that monounsaturated fat has no
- special power but is valuable as a replacement for damaging
- saturated fats.
- </p>
- <p> On the basis of canola's virtues, American sales have
- doubled over the past two years, though canola still accounts
- for only 2.3% of all oils consumed in the U.S. Four years ago,
- Procter & Gamble converted its Puritan cooking-oil line from a
- soy-sunflower blend to 100% canola. Earlier this year Dean
- Foods, a Virginia-based company, rolled out a margarine rich in
- canola. Next year Frito-Lay plans to introduce SunChips, corn
- chips fried in canola oil. This surge of interest has caused a
- boomlet in Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana, where growers are
- starting to plant acreage in the 5-ft., yellow-flowering
- rapeseed plants from which canola oil is derived.
- </p>
- <p> Oil from rapeseed plants, a relative of mustard, has been
- consumed in Europe and Canada for decades, but not in the U.S.,
- because it was suspected of causing heart abnormalities in rats.
- Rapeseed oil was relegated to American industrial uses, like
- lubricating heavy machinery or putting the shine in glossy
- paper. Oil from a new strain of the plant won FDA approval as
- a cooking oil in 1985. Even then, manufacturers had to label
- products, unappetizingly, as low-erucic-acid rapeseed oil.
- Finally, in 1988, the FDA allowed the product to be called by
- the name used in Canada, where most canola is produced. Soon
- thereafter its reputation took off.
- </p>
- <p> How well the canola refrain will continue to play is
- anyone's guess. For one thing, the relative scarcity of domestic
- supplies could crimp future sales. To confuse matters more, some
- health researchers are beginning to question whether a reduction
- of cholesterol is necessarily good for everyone. Just this
- August, the British Medical Journal reported that low levels of
- cholesterol may be associated with an increased risk of suicide.
- </p>
- <p>By Janice M. Horowitz. With reporting by Marc Hequet/St. Paul.
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
-